The Sleeping Knight – A Queue with a View

If you climb in a mountain in the Polish Tatras, it has to be Giewont – otherwise known as the Sleeping Knight. Or so I was told.

You can see it from the town, which is probably why it’s so popular – it has a pretty impressive unobstructed view.

Once again we got the bus from Zakopane to Kuznice to shave off those initial kilometres, and took the ‘easiest’ route from there.

There are a couple of huts on route where you can use the toilet – this is the second one at 1335m. By this point I was already a bit sick of rocky paths again and my calves were giving me a bit of trouble – possibly due to my heavy boots. People here prefer trainers and I can see why.

Couldn’t complain too much though with views like this on the way up – and will plenty of stops to get some leg energy back it was okay.

See – happy smiling people! We even saw some cool wildlife, an eagle and a chamois. Thanks Dan for taking all the cute wildlife photos.

Now ALOT of people hike up Giewont. So once you get to the steeper rocky bits the rocks get really smooth – like super slippy smooth. There are chains to help but it still isn’t easy (though kids do it so I’m probably exaggerating a bit). I don’t have lots of pictures of it but yeah.

This was a particularly nasty bit. Not fun! Gnarly.

And then we got to the summit, where there is a giant metal cross which has been struck by lightning many times. Good job we had no thunderstorms today. Didn’t get lots of photos because as you can see, lots of people.

So much so, that on the way up and down there was a queue!

A queue with quite a view though!

This is a less dramatic one. When we got back off the summit the queue to go up was ridiculous. There is actually a one way system, which is very useful! I did lots of using my bum as a fifth limb to get down which totally works for me.

We chose a different route down so we could go straight back to Zakopane and not visit Kuznice again. This route down is much more difficult with a little more scrambling and lots of big rocks to skip down. I was glad for my heavy boots on the way down – I guess you win some and lose some.

I pretty much needed the toilet the whole way but the abundance of running water and people meant no wee for me for a while.

We reached another hut at the end of the steep parts where I could go to the toilet – it was the most disgusting portaloo I’ve ever used but a girl gotta pee when a girl gotta pee. Note to self – bring the shewee in future – even for day hikes.

From the hut was another hours walk back to Zakopane.

Look, you can see Giewont again!

Saw a cute squirrel on the way back.

Now I’m back at the hotel and can’t wait to eat dinner tonight. Hopefully I’ll be rested enough to hike again tomorrow to see one of the famous lakes.

Kasprowy Wierch

We managed to get a mini bus from Zakopane to Kuznice today which was super good and shaved off 3km of walking! Woohoo!

This was a bit of a funny hike. Originally, we thought we’d go to a lake called Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy from Kuznice, but put in some more ascent to get to Kasprowy Wierch instead.

We took the blue path and then the yellow path (left hand side).

The first section of the ascent is in the forest. More rocky paths and more sore feet – yay! Before too long we were out of the trees for a our first views over Zakopane. (About 1300m – I was like woaaah we’re so high! It’s weird to regularly have been up at that level now).

Climbed up some more and back down to 1500m where there was a nice stone mountain house with restaurant and more importantly toilets. Did make Dan go in first because I couldn’t work out which door it was.

At this point we could either carry on as planned to the lake, or head up the mountain. I was skeptical, but the mountain won out.

Not to worry though! Saw a small lake with the remaining snow in the background instead.

Stopped for snacks with 55 minutes left according to the sign. In reality it was a fair bit longer.

From here onwards, the path got rockier and steeper and I wasn’t having much fun.

Looking behind at the path we’d walked was pretty crazy.

An English speaker offered to take our photo which was nice! I took one for a family earlier in the day, asking the question via hand signalling.

The top was pretty crowded because you can also access it by cable car. It still gave us some stunning views. It’s also right on the Slovakian border, though I don’t think I crossed into Slovakia this time. It was also nearly 1900m – a new high for me!

Having never been in a cable car down a mountain before, well, it was too nice to resist. Saved my ankles alot of pain on the steep bit of the descent, and means I can do more hikes in the remaining days.

Back in Kuznice, we finally tried Polish dumplings, which were really good but probably a bit much on a sunny day post-hike. Even still, we walked back to Zakopane, which is a nice gentle downhill.

I’m glad we did this walk, but now I’m really tired and have already had a little nap. I’m having the best time, it’s really awesome to have a large-ish hiking town so close to the mountains – and not having to hire a car was a huge win.

Intro to Poland

It’s my third new country of 2019! Pretty cool.

The day of travelling was long, left home at 3:15am and got to Zakopane at 7pm. This time, we’re relying on public transport which is kinda nice. Still learning to figure it out.

When we landed, we took the train from the airport to Krakow, where we had pizza because we were dragging around suitcases. We are coming back to Krakow for a day on the way back so will explore then. Took another train from Krakow to Zakopane – which was 3 and a half hours. There are buses too but we chose the train – it only cost £12 each or something stupid!

The little Hogwarts Express like cabins were cute! We got allocated seats next to some other British girls inter-railing. What’s the probability of that?

Really loving our hotel in Zakopane. It’s away from the main street so quite quiet.

For our first evening we walked into town in the drizzle. Zakopane is so much bigger than where we are used to travelling! I will take pictures when it is not drizzling. There are little stalls selling sweet treats, restaurants, bars, shops (so many sports shops!). Even in the rain it was bustling with people. For dinner we picked a cosy bar, where I had salmon with local mushroom sauce. Was definitely a bit rich but enjoyed it all the same.

Day 2 included a nice long lie in before trying some meats and cheese for breakfast. We weren’t sure what to do as the weather forecast included lots of rain. Settled on a nice roundabout hike to Kuznice.

It was a much more beautiful hike than I anticipated. You pay a small fee to access the Tatra national park. The paths are super well maintained, including the wooden bridges. There are plenty of information boards around with the park rules (one of the only things I’ve seen so far with an English translation). They really care about the wildlife – even well behaved dogs on leads aren’t allowed, and you have to stick to the paths.

The hike up was stunning, with water features, forests and mountains. It was really steep in places – but not too difficult. It didn’t rain for the first half of our hike – and was actually quite warm too, which I’m grateful for.

We reached about 1300m today, which isn’t bad going. And then the rain came (and one thunder clap – scary!) Learning from the drenching Sweden gave us, I put my waterproof trousers and coat on straight away. Was probably a good decision. Despite the rain, I still enjoyed the downwards section of the hike. The path straightened up (though it was cobbled so my feet are the tiniest bit sore now). It wasn’t long before we reached Kuznice, which seems like the start of most hikes in the area.

Having not had lunch, we had waffles! Tasty with chocolate Nutella sauce.

There were little cafés and a restaurant. Plus outdoor gear shops! And the cable car – which I think we’ll definitely take one day as it almost reaches 2000m.

If there is one thing I’ve noticed about Poland so far it is that pretty much everyone wears good trainers. All sorts of brands, all sorts of colours. Way more choice than anything I’ve seen in the UK. Might have to do a little shoe shopping whilst I’m out here.

We decided to walk the 50 minutes back to our hotel since we couldn’t figure out which bus to get. There are loads of little mini buses that take you to places! In future we are going to get the bus to Kuznice from Zakopane to skip the first part of the walk.

Not sure what we are going to do during the rest of the week, but I’m sure it will include lakes and mountains! Plenty of options – we are spoiled for choice.

Now for a nap before braving the busyness of the town again for dinner.

Col de Pause

Planned to drive up to Col de Pause but the road was closed (boo) so had to walk up.

Parked up in Serre and met a really huge mountain dog (I got back in the car – still shook up by my fave terrible twosome across from the gite).

Ate some nice ham and salami baguettes (thanks Dan) and set off up the rocky road.

Didn’t particularly enjoy the hike upwards – not really sure why. It was very beautiful though!

Took some little paths that cut out some of the road. Much shorter but much steeper!

Then we arrived at a little plateau, and decided to climb a small (but again, steep) hill to get some really beautiful 360° views. Even saw some vultures up in the sky.

Took some dorky photographs of us. Sat down and enjoyed the natural sounds around us – birds, insects, the river / waterfall running down the mountain. It’s the kind of place you can stay for a really long time as there’s no end of cool things to look at. And a straight line distance of 4km from Spain. Definitely not crossing over this time!

Met some people who had also walked up with their cute snowy white dog (a nice one!)

On the way down we saw a snake and a lizard (I don’t think I’ve ever seen a wild snake before?). We got the beautiful views that had been behind us on the way up.

Lac de Bethmale

So we started our hike at Lac de Bethmale, after having a nice view of the mountains at col de la core.Took a steep hike up a road that made a pretty nice path. Complained a bit. Smiled a bit. Crossed a few bits of snow (snow!!) and took them very steadily.Found our path and up we went! It wasn’t bad to begin with, just the rocky paths we are used to. And then we reached the snowline.I’d never walked in this kind of snow before – the kind where you don’t know whether your foot will slide right in so you’re thigh deep in it.


It got really steep and then Dan actually ended up thigh deep in it, so we turned back. (Why is it always us?)Going back down was even trickier as snow was becoming slush. This time it was me that ended up on my backside, but hey, at least my leggings dried quickly (can’t say the same for my boots).

Had a break when we’d reached the end of the snow. Saw other people on their way down – not sure if they went up the same way or not. Ah well! Better safe than sorry.

Only when we came back down the road did I realise just how long this section was! Down is much easier than up though! Saw a cute dog on the way.Got back to the lake, had a few snacks. Took a short walk around the lake. Job well half done…well more than half. Got to 1600m ish which is higher than I’ve ever been!

Cascade d’Ars

So I’d heard about a waterfall and Dan found out where it was. He drove us down 5km of mountain roads, plus through some little villages and we parked up at Aulus-les-Bains.

Naturally, the entire way to even the base of the waterfall was steep and rocky. Naturally, my legs were in no shape to do it comfortably, as always the case.

There were bits of snow around which was pretty odd for me walking around in a t-shirt. The weather was perfect.

We finally got to the base of the waterfall and honestly it was so beautiful and relaxing. I sat for a while just listening as Dan tried out some new camera features.

We tried to climb higher but we had to cross a smaller waterfall that just wasn’t looking that safe so stopped where we had arrived to have a rest. (Why does this always happen to us??)

The way down was much easier. It’s always good the see the views from a different perspective.

Got to the bottom, found a shop to get more food. Had chocolate tarts because why not? And cold drinks! I tried this cold green tea and honey fizzy drink that tasted mildly of beer.

As we drove home we spotted the fearsome dogs from yesterday taking themselves for a walk down the road! It was nice to know we would be able to get out of the car with no bother hahaha.

Aulus-les-Bains is a gorgeous little village and I’m glad we visited. Now to decide what comes next.

We’re in the Pyrenees!

In complete argument with my inner planner, we booked a last minute holiday to the Pyrenees. After waiting a day to hear if we could stay in our chosen accommodation, and having to try a second company to hire a car, we were all set!

Having had a couple of occasions of trying to sleep in the airport, or leaving the house at 1.30am to get there in time, we did the unthinkable and slept in an airport hotel. Even though we still had to wake up at 3:30am, it was totally worth it. Extra sleep = happy me.

From there it was no nonsense. Park the car, get on the bus, drop bags off that combined didn’t break the weight limits, through security, 5:30am breakfast, flight to Toulouse! (Thanks Ryanair for giving me the whole emergency exit row to myself – would have been nice to have sat with Dan who also had a row to himself 12 rows in front of me).The hire car proved no problem once we landed. Except it’s huge compared to what we normally get given! It does have a huge sunroof and in built satellite navigation so we can at least find our way to places!

We stopped at a little supermarket on the way, not realising it was closing at 1pm because it’s Sunday. We had half an hour and got a few bits and bobs for dinner. And then, pretty much 3 hours early, we arrived in Anilac, Oust.We decided to take a walk to the next village, Cominac, and got some spectacular mountain views, even with the overcast sky.We arrived back at Anilac to discover we’d been upgraded to a bigger gite as another family had stayed there the week before and it made sense not to warm another house.It’s so cute with the most amazing shower and heated floor in the lounge.

We cooked and ate dinner, read some, then decided to walk up the road a bit to get some phone signal.After giving the owner’s dog a fuss, Canelle (Cinnamon), we saw another tiny grey dog, who decided to bark at us, and attract it’s pal, a giant alsatian, who decided to chase us up the road with snapping teeth.

Tiny grey dog snapped at Dan’s ankles too!They abandoned chase and we got a tiny bit of signal at the end of the road. Then we realised we had to get back. Big dog spotted us but stayed in the garden of his house and we made it back. Note to self: some dogs are terrifying and don’t want to be friends. And sprinting is never a good idea after dinner.

Had an excellent cup of pukka’s relax tea (the irony is not lost) and went to bed in the cosy upstairs room.Here’s to avoiding scary Alsatians and seeing some beautiful sites.